the Grand Tour blog

Rome: San Giovanni in Laterano

Back in the city from Palestrina I left the metro before reaching the centre to visit San Giovanni in Laterano, Rome's cathedral and the seat of the Pope as bishop of the city. The building was reworked by Borromini in the mid-17th century, but much of the inside dates from 1600. I'd describe it as impressive and stern rather than beautiful, but certainly interesting and with rich decoration around the altar. The entrance doors are absolutely massive. The inside was rather spoiled by rows of cheap and elderly plastic chairs, which were being moved around noisily by a workman.

Paid a couple euros to go into the very pleasant and peaceful cloisters, decorated in the 13th century, and displaying remains of earlier stonework from the site.

A nice day out

Today was my planned journey to Palestrina, a small town 50km east of Rome, and birthplace of the important composer Giovanni Perluigi da Palestrina, normally known simply as ‘Palestrina’, in 1525.

First a trip on Metro A to the end of the line at Anagnina; 25 minutes for the 15 stops. Then a 55 minute bus journey from the Anagnina bus station to Palestrina, €5 for the return ticket. At least half the journey is through tedious Rome suburbs, with hold ups, lunatic drivers and a terrible road surface. There were fewer hold ups later. I note that they are building a new Metro line – Linea C – right to the edge of the city. Officially the bus stops only once in Palestrina, so I was keeping my eyes on the road and the limited signs, but in fact it seems to stop in random other places as well as the official stop, which isn't actually marked.

Palestrina is built on a hill, a steep one, and set in attractive countryside. I had a rough map, from Google, but it didn't mark much of interest, though it was useful for the layout of the roads and a few names. I came first to the Duomo, with its rather colourful interior, where Giovanni Perluigi was appointed organist in 1544 before going on to greater things in Rome.

I knew roughly where his house is – off Corso Perluigi, naturally enough – but couldn't locate it, so carried on up the many steep steps to Palazzo Barberini, towards the top of the hill. In fact I went on further up, to get some better views over the countryside. The Palazzo was built in the 11th century and modified in 1640, and now contains an archeological museum – Palestrina is built on an Etruscan settlement.

I didn't go into the museum, but the helpful lady in the small tourist office in the building gave me a map and explained where to find Perluigi's house. Sadly it was closed today, being a Monday. I'd thought that might be the case, and had originally planned to make this trip on Sunday but changed my mind for some reason. Before leaving home I hadn't been able to find out anything about visiting the house, or even if it's possible, as the website of the Fondazione Giovanni Perluigi da Palestrina, who have owned the building since 1995, doesn't say.

The house is surprisingly large, three storeys, and dates back to the 14th century. It's main function now seems to be to house a library and to hold exhibitions. I was sorry to miss the inside, but in fact I don't think it's arranged at all as Perluigi would have known it (and no-one knows how it was anyway).

Then to find a place where I thought the bus back to Rome might stop, which it did, and I was back in the city soon after 2:00pm. I must admit to nodding off on the bus – maybe I relaxed a bit on my day out.

Rome: the Pantheon

When I arrived at the Pantheon it was closed for the Sunday service, and due to reopen around 11:45. I joined the large crowd outside and we all waited fairly patiently. The huge doors were partly open, and I could see and smell the incense inside. It was past 12:00 when the doors were opened fully and we all surged in.

The Pantheon was rebuilt by Hadrian in about 125AD. It is circular in plan, with a huge dome, 43 metres in diameter and 43 metres high. There are no visible arches or vaults. Incredible. At the top of the dome is a 9m diameter hole, which lets in the sunlight to give a beautiful soft light inside (the floor slopes slightly towards the centre, to let the rain out). What I hadn’t realised was how finely decorated it is inside. Since it was midday, and it’s almost midsummer, the strong sunlight was streaming almost straight down. I took all my photos with the Nikon 12-24mm lens, this one actually at 24mm.

Rome: late at the Colosseum

Quite pleased after going down to the Colosseum with the camera tonight after eating, arriving at twilight. I wandered up and down the street for a while – feeling slightly nervous – while waiting for most of the light to fade. Then walked round the Colosseum and took a few photos; one side has a road and traffic lights, so pics are impossible there. Back home on the Metro. My new-found safer/quicker route through the station helped [report later]. 

It was very dark and the Nikon D300 was working hard: set to ISO3200, -2.0EV compensation, and reporting low exposure. In fact it did 1/6 second at f/6.3 according to the EXIF data; VR turned on of course. The above image straight from the camera – a small amount of Highlight & Shadow adjustment in Photoshop would help.

It’s been a long day at the office: I walked into St Peter’s (Basilica di San Pietro) at 07:10 this morning, and took my final photo at 21:30 tonight. 307 images (not all of them winners!). I think I might have a lie-in tomorrow. After all, tonight is the halfway point of my tour.

Rome: Basilica di San Pietro

Today was my planned day to visit St Peter's (Basilica di San Pietro), which opens at 07:00, a time which seems to be the only way to miss the crowds. So I was awake at 05:50, just before the alarm, and outside after an inadequate breakfast by 06:35. Into the train station for the Metro, using the entrance opposite this building which has something to do with the airport connection. I found a safer (for night time) and faster route under the platform, which has airport-style moving walkways. It still took more than five minutes to get to the station concourse, and then quite a lot of Metro tunnels.

Finally arrived at St Peter's at 07:10. Not many people around. The piazza was designed in about 1660 by Gian Lorenzo Bernini, and is familiar to us all through TV broadcasts. It's huge, and impossible to photograph at ground level. In any case it's half-full of cheap chairs and barriers, so not very photogenic.

I was through the airport-style security and into the Basilica by 07:30. It's not too dark, but the light is high contrast, with dark corners and sunlight starting to come through the east doors and windows. Visitors are free to wander around and take photos, though there are little services or blessings going on all the time at the many side chapels. It really is very big and awe-inspiring. Perhaps the most moving thing for me was Michelangelo's Pietà (showing Mary holding the body of Jesus), which he carved in marble at the age of just 24.

The Basilica was difficult to photograph in any meaningful way, but I was pleased to notice beams of sunlight, as the sun rose higher towards the end of my visit, streaming though the east window down to the nave. So I've chosen one of those images:

Then to the dome, after a 30 minute queue to buy a ticket. It's €5.00 to walk all the way (551 steps) and €7.00 to go part way by lift (then 320 steps to the top). I chose to walk all the way (of course!), but in fact those early steps are the easy ones so the lift doesn't really help a lot. Excellent views of the city and the piazza, and a chance on the way down to photograph the statues which stand above the facade, looking over the piazza, at the base of the dome. I came down at 10:30 feeling I'd already done a day's work.

Rome: Forum and Palatine Hill

From the Colosseum I went straight to the Roman Forum nearby, but without realising that my Colosseum ticket was valid for it, so I queued again (but not for long). Duh! I didn’t bother with the audio guide, because I find it’s just too hard to listen to the guide and take pictures at the same time. But I followed the same route through the five acres of history; clearly this was a sophisticated city.

Then to the Palatine Hill (Monte Palatino), an even larger area which is supposedly where Rome was founded. The pleasant Farnese Gardens (Giardini di Farnesiani) are thought to be among the first botanical gardens in Europe. I emerged after 2 hours at 12:20 feeling quite exhausted, with 150 images on the card so far today.

Rome: the Colosseum

Woke before 6:00, thanks in part to the trains and announcements in the station opposite. Peering out of the window the sky seemed clear, though it was not yet light. Dozing for another 40 minutes I woke again to find sun streaming though the window from a clear blue sky. The Met Office as reported by the BBC got it wrong, and I could go back to Plan A.

Quickly got ready, made some breakfast in my DIY kitchen, and was out by 8:00 on foot to the Colosseum; I'd decided that walking direct would be quicker than the fairly long trek to the Metro in the train station, then negotiating the trains and platforms. I was at the Colosseum by 8:20 for the 8:30 opening time, and there were only 60 or so people in front of me waiting to buy tickets.

As an old person I get in free, but I'd planned to buy the fairly expensive RomaPass because it gives faster entry to the Colosseum and some other attractions. However the helpful lady in the Tourist Office said don't bother with the pass because the Colosseum is the only place with a significant queue, and that not bad first thing which is when I'd intended to visit anyway.

The queue proceeded quite slowly, as the people at the desk seemed to explain to almost everyone (who hadn't done their homework!) all the different pricing options, including the RomaPass. When I arrived at the window I chanted the magic incantation "Sono in pensione", flashed my passport as proof of age and had my ticket in 10 seconds.

The Colosseum is big! I somehow managed to stay an hour and a half, taking quite a lot of pics under that nice blue sky. Most of them wide angle of course, and some with the excellent Nikon 12-24mm.

Rome: orientation

Once I'd settled in my room I set off on an orientation walk, and to find out what the Metro's like, and to confirm I can work my three doorkeys; one of them is huge and very secure. Normally there's no-one here who could let me in. Headed for the church of Santa Maria Maggiore, which is nearby. Not of huge significance, as Rome sights go, but under the 18th century facade the building dates from around 420AD, and the Rough Guide describes it as having one of the best-preserved Byzantine interiors. But it was closed, in preparation for a religious festival this evening. Vatican TV were parked outside.

Carried on down the hill – Rome was built on seven hills, remember – to find the Colosseum and suss out the entrance for my planned early morning visit. It should be about a 20 minute walk direct from the B&B. Right now the area outside was crowded with tourists. It just sits there, all 2000 years of it. Amazing.

It had been raining on and off since I arrived and I felt I'd done enough, so I took the Metro at the convenient Colosseum station for the two stops back to the train station. No problem with my new 7-day travel card, which I'd bought for €16 as soon as I arrived, and which covers, Metro, bus and tram (not many in Rome). The trains are fast though not particularly frequent, and the outsides of the coaches seem decorated entirely by Banksy’s students. 

After I was back in the B&B there was a huge thunderstorm overhead. I busied myself with some domestic stuff, like clothes washing in the tiny basin, and swapping Florence documentation and maps for Rome documentation and maps, then started the tedious business of trying to work out where to eat. The BBC are forecasting rain all day tomorrow, so I’m not quite sure what to do.

Rome: arrival

Despite leaving Florence ten minutes late, the train made up time and arrived in Rome exactly on time at 12:45. The ticket inspector was happy with my home-printed ticket – in fact I think you only have to quote the code.

My B&B is next to the station, with just a busy road between. I found it easily enough, though it's a longer walk than I expected, pretty much the length of the station. It's part of what I imagine was built as an apartment block in the early to mid 20th century – in fact much of it is used as apartments now – and is on the fifth floor (with a lift!). 

My room overlooks the station – all 24 platforms – and the sound of the train announcements, and the screech of the train wheels, and occasional hoots and whistles, and the te-tum te-tum as trains arrive and leave, is a constant backgound noise. I'd thought the road might be a problem, but that is inaudible except when a hooting match starts in the rush hour. Well, there is double glazing, but one needs air. Also a narrow balcony, but I've been wary of standing on it much, being on the fifth floor.

The room is modern and nicely decorated, though with no table, so the laptop has to be a laptop. I have WiFi, but it's weak and excruciatingly slow. I think I'm at the far end of the signal range. Sometimes the Mac connects, sometimes the iPhone connects, sometimes neither connects. Which is a pity as I'd hoped to have an easier time blogging and emailing than I've had so far.

Florence to Rome: another grey day

On the fast train from Firenze to Roma. The Grand Tour curse seems to have struck again and the sky is well and truly Grand Tour Grey. Some spots of rain this morning, but I didn't get wet as I did yesterday afternoon.