The old city of Lucca is surrounded by a defensive wall, with a ring of green outside that. The train station is just outside the walls, as is plenty of other modern building. I found the gap in the wall on the route from the station, and located my hotel without too much difficulty – the streets are laid out on a sort of grid system, but with much of the grid not lining up and some of the streets slightly curved. The tourist map of the city is essential for newcomers, and the miniature compass on the strap of my camera bag is useful. In the end, though, the easiest thing is not to worry too much, because you always end up where you want to be eventually.
After checking in I went out to wander fairly aimlessly to get my bearings. Lucca is quite a culture shock after Rome. A few cars, unfortunately, a lot of bicycles, and no-one rushing. A good place to chill out (although the humidity is noticably higher than in Rome). I walked a little way in the evening sunshine on the broad roadway that runs all the way round on top of the walls. There were many joggers, cyclists and walkers. Came down and found myself in the Piazza Anfiteatro, an oval of Mediaeval buildings now ringed by cafés and restaurants.
A stage was set up at one end, and classical musicians were arriving. As I sat down to eat they started rehearsing for a concert at 9:30 – tickets required. They were soon joined by a young tenor with an excellent voice, in the Italian tradition. He seemed nervous (from a distance) but I later found out he is blind. The concert was part of a regional Puccini festival; Puccini was born in Lucca. So although I didn’t get to the concert, I may have had the next best thing.
