the Grand Tour blog

Florence to Rome: another grey day

On the fast train from Firenze to Roma. The Grand Tour curse seems to have struck again and the sky is well and truly Grand Tour Grey. Some spots of rain this morning, but I didn't get wet as I did yesterday afternoon.

Florence: Basilica di San Lorenzo

Started the day by heading north of the city centre to the Basilica di San Lorenzo, which claims to be the oldest church in the city and was its cathedral for around 300 years. The present building dates from the 1420s. It has a bare brick exterior; Michelangelo designed a facade but it was never implemented, and the wall has rows of protruding brick courses ready to support what would presumably have been slabs of marble. 

The interior was designed by architect Brunelleschi, and is breathtakingly simple and spacious. Everything seems perfectly proportioned. The slender pillars, with a little simple decoration at the top, and the arches that they support, are coloured mid grey. The rest of the walls are just off white, and the geometrically patterned ceiling is white and gold. The only colour is the decoration of the underside of the small dome. The structure is the perfect setting for superb side-aisle paintings by a roll-call of big names: Lapi, Ghirlandaio, Macchietti, Francesco Conti and others. Sadly photography is strictly forbidden, and I think the €3.50 entry fee pays for the army of stern young ladies strategically placed to keep visitors in order. 

On then to the Dominican church of Santa Maria Novella, with its attractive decorated facade. The interior also impressive, though for me not quite to the standard of San Lorenzo. But more superb artworks, including a huge gold and brightly-painted crucifix created by Giotto in 1289, well-lit and suspended over the nave. Again no photos, but there is a shop and I bought a card of the image I might have taken.

Florence: the Duomo and Brunelleschi's dome

I woke early today to a brilliant sunny morning, and was out with the camera by 6:55, taking pics of the buildings across the river and their bright reflections. Worked my way to the Duomo, Florence's startlingly-patterned cathedral, and took some photos of it in the deserted piazza. After grabbing some breakfast in a cafe at the edge of the piazza I joined the short queue for the climb to the dome just before the 8:30 opening time. The price has now increased to €8 from €6, but that doesn't seem to put people off. 

The views of the city from the top were fabulous under the clear blue sky, as well as of the richly patterned Campanile that I climbed yesterday. The rail round the top is quite low, and the marble slippery underfoot, so a bit of care is required! I took a few photos on the way up to try to capture the twisting stairs that end up climbing between the inner and outer domes, all cleverly designed by Brunelleschi in 1430. Finally down to join the queue for the inside of the Duomo about ten minutes before its opening time of 10:00. It's really very plain after all the excitement of the outside, although the marble floor is strongly patterned and I did my best to get some photos of it in between the other visitors walking over it.

Florence: another 414 steps

The weather started this morning as what's become known as GTG (Grand Tour Grey). I'd planned to go early to the dome of the Duomo, cleverly built of very thick stone by Brunelleschi in 1436, but it needs sun for the overhead views. So instead I visited two church interiors: Santa Trinita, just across the road from the hotel, and the nearby Ognissanti, the church at the centre of Mediaeval cloth production (foundation of Florence's economy). Both have frescoes by Ghirlandaio. 

Later it brightened up so I made for the Duomo to check the dome entrance for tomorrow; mid-morning the piazza was heaving and there were long queues for both the Duomo and its dome. I ended up climbing the 414 steps to the top of the Campanile, the Duomo's bell tower, which was completed around 1337. Good views and reasonable photos from the top. But my legs are still aching from walking a lot yesterday.

I dreamt I dwelt in marble halls

Staying in part of a wonderful old building here in Florence, part dating back to the 12th century, which allegedly once belonged to a minor member of the great Medici family. The eight room hotel is run by a charming young Italian-Japanese couple, and is decorated simply but very tastefully. The floors everywhere are of decorated marble tiles, attractive and cool. The weather this morning is grey and I think rain is forecast.

Final bookings

Several highlights on my list must be booked in advance. First, Leonardo da Vinci's The Last Supper (Cenacolo Vinciano), in the church of Santa Maria delle Grazie in Milan. One of the world's great paintings, the 15 x 29 foot mural was completed in 1498. Despite its popularity and the restricted number of visitors, booking doesn't seem to be possible very far in advance, hence my late attempt to do so. But a week ago the website showed it fully booked to the end of June – 8:15 to 18:45, six days a week – with no further dates. Since then they've released July and August (no use to me), and most of July has already gone. In fact I called the reservation line and they did have a slot available on my day in Milan, but it was too late in the day. I may try for a cancellation or no-show when I get there.

After much thought about whether I could get to an 8:30 booking at the Uffizi gallery in Florence, I find they don't have any availability until midday anyway, on my chosen day. Nor on the next day. So I tried booking for 12:15, but then their bank wouldn't accept my currency card. I gave it a while to release the ticket and tried again with another card, which also failed. Eventually I phoned the booking number and quickly got a booking reference for 12:15; collect the ticket and pay the fee when I get there. Easy!

Booked a 12:30 visit to the Giotto Frescoes in the Scrovegni Chapel in Padua, through their website. The frescoes – considered one of the most important masterpieces of Western art – narrate events in the lives of the Virgin Mary and Christ, and cover all the walls of the Chapel. They were commissioned by Enrico degli Scrovegni and completed by Giotto in 1305. Using the booking reference I must collect my ticket from the nearby Eremitani Museum ticket office before 11:30, which should give time for the journey from Venice without rushing; the Chapel and Eremitani are not far from the station. There are a few other things on my list for Padova, of course, mainly exteriors.

Finally, a booking for Basilica San Marco in Venice, not mandatory but it ought to save some queuing. Quite easy to book on the VenetoInside website (linked from the Basilica website), although there was some confusion over booking fees due to their automated system sending the wrong email. Quickly sorted, and I now have the all-important barcode for entry. The silly thing about Basilica San Marco is that the visit is meant to last only ten minutes, hardly enough time to walk from one end to the other. I'm hoping that by loitering in a quiet place I will be able to escape being chased out. 

Weather forecast

The weather here in the UK has been a bit cold and dull recently. But in Italy, according to the Weather app on my iPhone, it seems to be raining quite convincingly in all the places I plan to visit. This is the five-day forecast for Florence, but Milan, Rome and Venice all look just the same.

Not good for photography. I hope this is just a temporary glitch and that sunny weather settles in from the end of this month. In any case I must be sure to pack my umbrella and waterproof top...

Planning, planning, planning

Hmm, another three weeks of no diary. But for much of the time I’ve been working hard on identifying the highlights for each destination, and noting everything down in the format that I developed for Grand Tour I. The smaller and shorter destinations first: Milan, Cremona, Palestrina, Verona, Padua. 

On to Vicenza, which will be my last full day. It looks fabulous (full of Palladio) and is going to be busy, especially as I want to do the walk out to the Basillica di Monte Bérico and La Rotonda (and hoping for a nice warm and sunny late afternoon and evening to round off the Tour). Working backwards to Lucca, which also looks great but with fewer boxes to tick; I think much of the interest will be just the general look of the city and the views from the walls encircling it. Definitely needs good weather!

Then Bologna, the first day when I won't have to move on in the evening; highlights scattered so some walking to do, plus maybe the 3.5km walk under the 666 arches out to the Santuario di Madonna di San Luca, although I'm disappointed to see from Google Maps that there’s a new road running right beside this ancient portico for its entire length.

In sequence then to Florence, which just has so much to see I can’t believe that my 3.5 days there will be anything like enough even to scratch the surface. The Duomo and its dome, and the Campanile for the views, are the important highlights for me, plus the Uffizi which is the only gallery that I’m planning to spent significant time in. After that I have to see what I can see. I have nearly three pages of compact notes, though trying to include details of specific paintings, etc. to look out for in each place. But I want to have time to wander round and enjoy the city, and photograph the views along the river, etc., in between seeing the particular places I have to see. I realise even more now how well-placed my hotel is: in Mediaeval streets, just on the edge of the very centre, and right next to what the Rough Guide calls “the city’s most stylish bridge”.

Rome and Florence accommodation

Have had some correspondence with the people in Rome, and I seem to be homing in on the B&B near the station. The Colosseum is still walkable in about 20 minutes. And all the buses go from the station anyway, so no problem saving my feet a few hundred yards when going into town.

The trains to Pisa leave at 07:58, 09:46, 10:09 (slow) and 12:02. The 09:46 (arr 12:57) looks ideal, especially if I’m living next to the station. For arrival, there are three trains arriving from Firenze between 12:10 and 12:36, which would allow me to check-in or at least leave my case by 1:00, and have a full afternoon in Rome.

Called Florence with CC details and had a pleasant chat with the owner, who is very friendly. Later received confimation of the booking and replied to confirm receipt. I’m on my way!

Florence hotel available

Reply from Florence offering a single at €55. Basin in the room; bathroom shared between five rooms, which doesn’t sound good, but I’ve rechecked TripAdvisor and only a couple of people mention it, and only to say it wasn’t a problem. I’d like to hear from Rome before I accept, so I’m dragging my feet, but really I think it has to be.

Slightly concerned to find a blog by an American woman, who’s lived in Florence for ten years, complaining about the wet/cold weather in June [link lost for the moment]. All the weather and travel sites imply that early June is ideal. Hmm.